MODALISBOA – Spring/Summer 2011 – Day 4

By Gregorio | October 11, 2010 at 1:45 pm | 3 comments | Cool Things, MODALISBOA | Tags: fashion, Lisbon

For the final day of MODALISBOA, very eclectic collections were on display, proving Portuguese designers have an original and fresh perspective in today’s fashion scene.  



Vítor

New designer Vítor takes inspiration for this collection from the changing image of the city of São Paulo.  Although often unruly, it is in the midst of rebranding its image and cleaning up the “visual pollution.”  And so, his image is an abrupt cleanliness.  Black and white contrasts with cherry, leather and ash.  Metallics and sneakers mix with piqué cotton, satin and jersey.  His silhouette is fluid, with slight hints of structure. 

Ricardo Dourado

Ricardo Dourado was greatly influenced by the Taureg Rebellion in Mali. These emotions are represented in his Spring/Summer 2011 collection, from rebel costumes and customs, without forgetting urban and cosmopolitan sensibilities.  Fabrics are primarily 100% linen and 100% silk. Colors are characteristic of the theme with a palette of neutral tones, such as white sands and clear blends. 

Aforestdesign

The key word for this collection is “symmetry.”  Symmetry provides a feeling of harmony and balance, reflecting a sense of beauty and perfection.  This collection was developed as an exploration of form and aesthetics, by experimenting with different angles of line projection in the female and male silhouette.  Meshes and a variety of cotton fabrics in neutral tones mixed with bright colors, patterns and stripes, embody the concept of the collection. 

Pedro Pedro

The richness and detail of printed wallpaper is the idea behind Pedro Pedro’s collection.  Stylized and overgrown flowers in watercolor, pastel and bright colors.  Versatile pieces mix and match.  Natural fabrics, from silks to Duchess satin, are coordinated with leather.  Cotton knitwear, ruffles and custom prints are also emphasized.  Loose organic shapes, blended with a touch of minimal postmodernism, generate an inspired fusion to this collection. 

White Tent

Fluidity and draping are key elements of White tent’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection.  Billowing outer garments, oversized knitwear, breeches and shorts create a casual and unpretentious silhouette.  Subtle details, such as exposed pockets, interlocking panels and multiple layers add dimension.  As always, fabrics are key to White Tent creations. In this collection, Summer wool, washed cotton, waxed cotton for Japanese knitwear and knitted reversible wool give a tactile sensation.  Leather accessories complement the stripped-down style.  Chromatically the collection is very soft, pearl blue, brown, blue, gray and white, with touches of red and black.

Lukasz Jemiol

Light and fresh, Lukasz Jemiol’s designs clothes that fit the body, provide freedom of movement and personify individual style.  Richness of materials, apparent lack of construction, softness of fluid forms, and playful contrasts, are characteristics of this collection. Pieces are made from silks of various textures and thicknesses, thick cottons, soft jerseys, cashmere and fur.  Color scheme is neutral shades of gray, beige and black, with touches deep blue, strong pink, coral and orange. Special detailing by way of drapes and pleats accentuate the silhouette, along with the effects of insufficiently dyed materials, shadows and “tie-dye.”

Nuno Baltazar

Continuing his series inspired by travel, this collection is based in the Hellenistic Mediterranean.  Silhouettes are oversized, fluid fabrics with smooth and textured effects.  Irregular necklines, collars and fittings make for geometric contrast.  Twists and drapes, bias cuts, loose folds also add asymmetry to structured pieces.  Cotton fabrics, linen, crepe satins and silk blends with viscose are utilized.  The Mediterranean color palette is divided into two major groups, the first of neutral stone, sand, cinnamon, sepia, blood, charcoal and white marble of contrasting colors, and the second with burgundy, red lava, coral, watermelon, and ocher tones of sea green and cobalt blue. 

Maria Gambina

The romance of young love and tragedy is the inspiration for this playful and rebellious collection.   Some elements relate to mythology such as use of the griffin motif, the gorjeira (or cloth neckpiece used in armor), false draped sleeves unfinished edges.  Silhouettes for women are pencil skirts with high waists, making hips, smooth, short and oversized.  For me, the image is characteristic of the “teddy boy.”  Colors are black, white, burgundy, tan and light yellow, with hints of gold, pistachio, red and purple.  Fabrics used are new technology materials, cotton/lycra knits, pied-de-poule, silks and denim.

See also: 
MODALISBOA Fashion Week – Spring/Summer 2011 – Day 1
MODALISBOA Fashion Week – Spring/Summer 2011 – Day 2
MODALISBOA Fashion Week – Spring/Summer 2011 – Day 3