Everything Cool in Portugal
There was no rest on the final day of MODALisboa (Lisbon Fashion Week). On the catwalk today were fashions by Vitor, White Tent, Os Burgueses, Miguel Vieira, Dino Alves and Ricardo Dourado. Closing out the event was crowd favorite Nuno Gama.
African prints and scale prints are mixed with color blocks to mark the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection for Vitor. The prints on jersey offer a relaxed and flowing look. These same scale prints can be found in elements of midnight blue and green to create African pattern accents on skirts, collars or shoulder applications. Other materials used include, salmon and lamb leather, and hand-knitted lamb wool. Colors are nude, dark brown and dark blue.
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White Tent celebrates work wear for Autumn/Winter 2012. Whether it is a pilot’s flight suit or a pre-war factory jacket, White Tent re-imagines it for the 21st century. Wool/cotton blends, cotton and cashmere are worked in different shades of brown, khaki, green, pink, gray and black.
Os Burgueses play with the fantasy of world destruction aftermath in their Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. Various styles such as French cuffs, fan construction and garment deconstruction come into play. There is also tight vs. oversized, and structured vs. draped. Cottons and felted wool are combined with synthetic leather, printed silk and knit. End-of-the-world colors are imaged in black, burgundy, petrol blue, beige, gray and gunmetal.
Miguel Vieira’s collection is intended to be very elegant, aristocratic, even regal. Printed silks, satins, velvet, brocades, lace and hosiery perfectly define this concept, in rich colors of vanilla, egg yolk, aqua-marine blue, tobacco, wine and lavender. The silhouette for the woman is tubular, and although not form fitting is still sexy. For men, the look is tailored with attention to exquisite details.
According to Dino Alves, his Autumn/Winter 2012 collection is a metaphor for destroyed, dismembered and broken up lives. This is apparent in the deconstruction of clothing elements, and assembled and disassembled with various pieces hanging or dangling just perfectly. Jersey, silk, merino wool, silk organza, viscose and cotton come in black, gray, pearl, beige, dark green, brown, rust and cobalt blue.
A dark, almost underworld, presentation is how Ricardo Dourado chose to present his Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. Largely based in black, the pieces utilize cut outs and asymmetrical elements to elicit a somewhat fashionable subculture feel. Midnight blue, gray, muted gold and matte red accentuate the black from time-to-time. Transparent fabrics contribute to the mystique.
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Classic and handmade craftsmanship for the masculine, virile man simple defines the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection from Nuno Gama. A healthy dose of leather can be found here, among other interesting and less-traditional masculine materials such as fur and satin. The overall feel is military and equestrian, or form-fitting casual and active-wear designed to accentuate the “working man.” Colors range from almond, stone and sky blue to brown grey and green.
Also:
MODALisboa – Autumn/Winter – Day 1, with Ricardo Preto, Alves/Gonçalves and Pedro Pedro.
MODALisboa – Autumn/Winter – Day 2, with Lúis Buchino, Katty Xiomara and Ana Salazar
MODALisboa – Autumn/Winter – Day 3, Part 1, with RicardoAndrez, Filipe Faisca, Aleksandar Protic and Lidija Korovat
MODALisboa – Autumn/Winter – Day 3, Part 2, with Lanidor, Alexandra Moura, Maria Gambina and Nuno Baltazar