For years, A Ver Tavira was an attractive restaurant with a pretty terrace that looked—to those who happened to pass by—like a nice place to celebrate a special occasion sometime. But it wasn’t very much on food lovers’ radar until chef Luís Brito took over in 2017 and began making changes. Eventually he switched to tasting menus and began to “go for a Michelin star.” He got it—quite deservedly in the 2022 guide—and A Ver Tavira was suddenly on the map.
In Michelin’s old-fashioned formulation, a one-star is worth a stop, a two-star is worth a detour, and a three-star is worth a journey. But especially for those of us who prefer the simple elegance of a one-star to the theatrical pomp and circumstance of a three-star, A Ver Tavira is worth a journey.
That starts with the handsome dining room, with just five tables inside and a few more overlooking the city’s rooftops. The welcome, from head waiter Fernando Dores, is relaxed but professional and confident—he knows the diner is in for something special. Things get more interesting with the arrival of Cláudia Abrantes, the knowledgeable sommelier who has assembled an impressive wine list, bearing glasses of a sparkling wine from Algarvian winemaker João Clara.
Then the main event begins. For dinner, guests choose among five-, seven-, and ten-course tasting menus (as usual in the world of fine dining, the actual number of plates that land on the table is higher, as creative chefs tend to like surprises). The longest of these menus, called the Whole Trip and includes dishes with intriguing names like Africa on the Way—line-caught fish, tapioca, calulu, and muteta (a reflection of Brito’s time in Angola during his 30-year career)—and Discovery, with “Galega” steak, parsley root, and jus.
At lunch, the choices are scaled back to a more daytime-friendly four or five courses, mostly taken from the dinner menus, and without the conceptual names. During a recent lunch, standout dishes included the “Galega” steak; an unannounced amuse-bouche of foie gras, mango, and carrot; and a super-fresh summery starter of prawns from the Algarve coast, cold tomato, and basil.
Both at lunch and at dinner, the dessert is a special treat. It’s called Tribute, and made with banana, flowers, and a sorbet of poncha, the traditional aguardente-based punch in Madeira. The name is because it’s an homage to the island home of the pastry chef, Agostinho Gomes.
Ultimately, the food—for all its culinary technique—isn’t overly fussy and is, above all, pleasurable. As Brito says, “We can’t work for a star. We have to work for the client. If our guest is happy, we are happy.”
For more information, visit the A Ver Tavira website.
A Ver Tavira
Largo Abu-Otmane,
Calçada da Galeria 13
Tavira
Eastern Algarve
Phone: +351 281 381 363
Mobile: +351 912 950 019
Email: restauranteavertavira@gmail.com
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday – 12:00 to 15:00 and 18:30 to 22:00
