The partners behind Bonança—who come from various restaurant and non-restaurant backgrounds—bet big when they made their bet on restoring the historic Lisbon Naval Association (ANL) in the docks of Belém. They turned it into an all-day (and then some) venue that combines quality Portuguese gastronomy, architectural and political history, fine art, and animated nightlife.
The space is huge, with nearly 200 seats in different rooms across two floors, plus a few dozen more on the terrace in front, beside the marina in Belém. The “wow” room is the first one, which is dominated by a large, gorgeously restored mural that represents an encounter between Dom Manuel and Pope Leo X in 1514, at the height of the Portuguese Discoveries, and the symbolic gifts that were given, such as the elephant, the lynx, and the Arabian horse.
Other rooms and alcoves reflect that the space is still used by the ANL, with framed pennants and flags, century-old leather-bound books in the library, and a bit of naughty art here and there. It’s a reminder of their reading of the name Bonança (“bonanza”), which plays up its sea and maritime adventures.
The menu, overseen by chef Carlos Nunes (an alum of Michelin kitchens like 100 Maneiras in Lisbon, Bon Bon in Carvoeiro, and Restaurante Arola in Sintra) emphasizes Portuguese classics with international accents that reflect the legacy of the Discoveries. Thus, the carabineiro (scarlet prawn) rice is straightforward, while the tuna tartare is enlivened with green apple, ponzu, and wasabi. Many dishes, such as the classic rib-eye that’s served with golden wedge fries, are cooked over wood fires.
But this isn’t a place where people go solely for the food. In the evening, the space transforms itself into a bar and club with DJs and musicians. The artistic programming is based on big bets as well, with curator Pedro Costa building a diverse musical offering that includes world sounds and live performers. On Fridays and Saturdays, it turns into a clubbing space that’s open late into the night.
For more information, visit the Bonança website.
Bonança
Doca de Belém
Lisbon
Phone: +351 916 884 669
Email: reservas@bonanca.pt
Hours
Wednesday, Thursday and Sun – 12:00 to 24:00
Friday and Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00
Note: They expect to be open daily in the near future.)
(Photos by Hayley Kelsing courtesy of Bonança)