Ribatejo—the area slightly northeast of Lisbon—is one of those regions of Portugal that often gets overlooked. But native-born chef Rodrigo Castelo is out to change that by celebrating the products, recipes, and traditions of his region at his restaurant, Ó Balcão in Santarém.
Those efforts have been a clear success, as the restaurant was awarded a (regular) Michelin star, along with a green one for sustainable practices, in 2024. In addition to giving guests a pleasurable and memorable dining experience, he’s also been committed to research projects to understand and celebrate river fish to maintain a balance with the local ecosystem.
But dining at Ó Balcão doesn’t feel like a biology lesson or a lecture about environmental conservation. Rather, it’s a fully cozy and inviting experience. The dining room has the feel of a historic tavern (which it was), enlivened with a few contemporary tiles. Although you can’t sit at the counter, it’s still a focal point in the intimate room.
Although there is a tasting menu, Ó Balcão is one of the rare Michelin-starred restaurants that keeps its focus on a la carte dining. Along with starters and mains, there are sections for inventive snacks with local products—river fish croquettes with kimchi, boar tacos with fermented chili and beans—and cheese and charcuterie from local products.
Standout dishes from the more substantial part of the menu include grilled achigà (freshwater large-mouthed bass) with roasted barley, green apple salad, and grilled leeks; creamy rice with crab and crayfish from the river) and tenderloin with mushrooms and rice with lemon and coriander. There are a few vegetarian choices, such as pleurotus (mushrooms) with cream of onion and potato, and vegetable broth.
For all the creativity and fine-dining wizardry, an affection for tradition runs throughout. Everything from the long-fermentation bread to the ice creams is made in-house. Desserts include the tavern staple of chocolate mousse and a sweet, caffeinated treat simply called (on the English menu) Grandmother’s Coffee.
For more information, visit the Ó Balcão website .
Ó Balcão
Rua Pedro de Santarém 73
Santarém
Phone: +351 243 055 883
Email: tabernaobalcao@gmail.com
Hours:
Monday to Thursday – 12:00 to 15:30 and 19:00 to 22:00
Friday and Saturday – 12:00 to 15:30 and 19:00 to 23:00
Photos: Estúdio Tipo-Grafia
