For all of Kiko Martins’ wide-ranging restaurants (Peruvian ceviche, Asian fare, poke, and beef), he didn’t originally pay much attention to his native Brazil. That changed in late 2019, when he opened O Boteco, an homage to the bohemian gathering places where Cariocas would gather for drinks and snacks.
But all of Chef Kiko’s cuisine is informed by the year he spent traveling the world, eating and cooking with families in local communities. In this case, the predominant elements are Brazil (where he was born to Portuguese parents) and Portugal, where he has lived since he was 10 years old.
The dining room, in a prime spot on Praça Luis Camões, is gorgeous, with an Art Deco design reminiscent of Rio in the 1950s and installations by found-plastic artist Bordallo II (in photo at top). It is a joyful and informal space that is large but somehow manages to feel intimate.
The menu is playful and varied. There are “snack” like meaty “Cozido à Portugeusa” croquettes. Starters include a terrific take on typical Portuguese octopus salad with tapioca and red pepper ice cream, and an Amazonian ceviche with shrimp, croaker, coconut, banana, and açai. There are sections for eggs, typical Portuguese seafood, and sandwiches. Mains range from beef tenderloin pica-pau to shrimp and codfish “bobó,” a coconut-rich stew like a Brazilian moqueca with a European accent.
Feijoada À Brasileira croquettes, and Shrimp Bobò
Desserts also span the ocean. There’s a “pastel de nata” mille-fuille with port wine ice cream, as well as a Brazilian egg pudding called quindim with coconut tapioca and passion fruit.
Quindim with Tapioca and Maracujá
For more information visit the Chef Kiko’s Facebook page.
O Boteco
Praça Luis Camões, 37
Lisbon
Every Day – 12:30 to 23:30