Ask people in Lisbon where they go to cool off in summer and you will hear Comporta, Ericeira or the beaches of Arrábida. Very few will say Castelo de Bode. Yet about an hour and a half north-east of the city there is a lake long enough to get lost on, framed by pine and cork oak, with water clear enough to see your feet. That may not stay a secret for long: the lake is starting to attract people who want more than a weekend there, and a new eco village, Amara Village, is being planned on its shore.
(Photo at top: The Amara Village site on the Castelo de Bode lake, from above. © Amara Village)
The lake
Castelo de Bode is not a natural lake. It was created when a dam on the Zêzere river was completed in 1951, flooding a valley full of side streams. The result folds between the hills, so every bend opens onto a new cove. It is also the main source of drinking water for the Lisbon area, which is one reason it is so carefully protected.
In summer there are river beaches, kayaks and paddleboards, and boats heading out from the nautical centre at Trízio. Out of season, it is mostly you, the birds and the hills. It is this mix of water, forest and quiet, so close to Lisbon, that is starting to make people think about staying.
From weekend spot to place to live
Amara Village is one answer to that. Planned on more than 50 hectares of woodland on the Tomar side of the lake, the idea is a small village rather than a resort: homes built with natural materials, shared vegetable gardens, a school, a yoga space looking over the water, and cars left at the edge so the paths stay quiet. Because the lake supplies Lisbon’s water, the team says the village is being designed to protect it, with water treated naturally and green corridors left between the houses.
It is still at the planning stage, so there is nothing to visit yet. For now, the best way to understand why anyone would want to live here is to spend a few days by the water yourself.
While you are there: Tomar
Tomar is a small riverside town where the Templar knight Gualdim Pais founded the castle in 1160. Go up to the Convento de Cristo early, before the coaches arrive. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its cloisters reward a slow wander. Then walk down to the old town for coffee by the Nabão river, and try the fatias de Tomar, a local sweet made almost entirely of egg yolk. Do not ask about the calories.
Good to know
- Swimming season runs roughly from June to September; spring and autumn are best for walking.
- You will want a car: the coves are spread out around the lake.
- Stay in a rural guesthouse near the water rather than in town.
To follow the project, the Amara Village website has the latest news.