Not long after respected chef Luís Gaspar opened the relaxed, traditional Pica-Pau, he opened the refined, elegant brasserie Brilhante. It has a glamour that wouldn’t be out of place in Paris, London, or New York, especially the fringed lamps, red velvet banquettes, and studded leather chairs around the bar.
About that bar: It’s the centerpiece of the restaurant. The 26 seats at the stone counter are excellent places to sit alone for a meal or a cocktail—there are more than 50 whiskey references on the menu—or to settle in during a date to dine shoulder-to-shoulder and watch the chefs at work. The kitchen is fully on display, encircled by that bar. A handful of booths are spread around three of the walls.
The menu emphasizes timeless dishes of French and international cuisine, such as a foie gras torch and oeufs en cocotte as starters, Lobster rice and sole meunière as main courses, souffle and tarte tatin with Madagascar vanilla ice cream for dessert. Everything is turned out with meticulous attention to detail and brought to the table with a thorough explanation.
The oyster service is one of the best in Lisbon. The bivalves, from the Sado Estuary, are presented on a tray of ice with mignonette, lemon, and an unexpected addition of whiskey, which is served with an eye dropper to get just the right amount into the shells. The flavor combination is surprisingly delicious.
But the most famous dish is the Brilhante steak, a dish inspired by the classic Bife à Marrare that was served at Lisbon’s famous cafés in the 19th century. Gaspar and his team perfected the recipe and now are keeping it secret, but it’s safe to assume that it includes a fair amount of cream.
No problem. Brilhante is not a place to obsess about your diet. Rather, it’s a place to step back in time, to turn up the sophistication, and enjoy an afternoon or evening of living the good life.
For more information, see the Brilhante website.
Brilhante
Rua da Moeda 1G
Lisbon
Phone: +351 210 547 981
Email: brilhante@restaurantebrilhante.pt
Hours:
Monday to Friday – 12:00 to 16:00 and 18:30 to 01:00
Saturday and Sunday – 12:00 to 01:00
Photos courtesy of Brilhante
