Every once in a while, a restaurant opens that generates so much excitement that it becomes tricky to get into before it even gets out of soft opening. In late 2023, the unassuming-looking Canalha Lisbon became one of those places, popping up on famous chefs’ social media feeds before the press releases had been written.
That’s because the restaurant, which looks like an old-school tasca on a quiet stretch of Rua da Junqueira between the edges of Alcântara and the tourist bloom of Belém, is the passion project of talented, popular chef João Rodrigues. He held a Michelin star at Feitoria, then left fine dining to focus on his Projecto Matéria, which spotlights Portuguese farmers and producers, and spent a year organizing 12 food events in 12 regions of the country.
His new venture hits the nostalgia buttons hard, with marble tables, a fish counter in the front, a long dining counter, and 1980s Portuguese rock music on the stereo. There are plans to install a television to show football matches, just like most of the old-school restaurants around Portugal. It’s meant to be a family-lunch spot, and even the name, Canalha (“scoundrel” in English), suggests a kid-friendly environment.
But at the same time, the ingredients and the cooking are a step up from most neighborhood joints. The kitchen is large run by Lívia Orofino, who will take over the reins when Rodrigues turns his focus to an upcoming fine dining project in Lourinhá.
The menu hits all the classics, like cod pastries that are perfect with a tiny cold beer at the counter, and scarlet prawns to be savored with wine at a table. But unlike most typical restaurants here, the menu spotlights the producers: chorizo and acorn-fed dry cured ham from Maldonado, Simmental beef tartare from Alex Castani, and bluefin tuna (as tiradito) from Balfegó.
“Sea and mountain” fried rice
Prawn and onion open tortilla
The classics are perfectly executed, and there are a few excellent novelties, such as an open-face tortilla (omelet) with prawns and onions, and perfectly tender line-caught squid with sheep’s butter. A dish of the day is written on a slate board at lunchtime.
For more information, visit the Canalha Instagram page.
Canalha
Rua da Junqueira 207
Lisbon
Phone: +351 962 152 742
Email: geral@canalha.pt
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday – 12:30 to 15:30 and 19:00 to 23:00
Images by Joana Freitas courtesy of Canalha
