Carnal Mexican Gastrobar by Ljubomir Stanisic, in Lisbon

Ljubomir Stanisic’s latest project is characteristically bold. Called Carnal, it’s a Mexican gastrobar that’s all about the “pleasure of the flesh and of the spirit.” That means an audacious decor, inspired by cut lace, ceremonial masks, and the curves of Quetzalcoatl that wind across the ceiling, cocktails made with tequila and mezcal, and a menu of boldly-flavored Mexican dishes.

Lisbon is having something of a Mexican food moment these days, but this project, guided by Stanisic and run by “brothers of blood” Manuel Maldonado (executive chef), Miguel Santos (operations manager), Luis Ortiz (head chef), and João Sancheira (head bartender). They like to throw around words like free, alive, iconographic, erotic, and visceral.

That translates to menus where antojitos, tacos, quesadillas, main dishes and desserts are “written” on handpainted stoneware without rules or straight lines. And to a “gastronomical mixology” menu of ten signature cocktails with ingredients like shiitake mushrooms, habanero, and corn.

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Theatrics aside, it’s worth it for the food, made with many products imported from Mexico. Standouts on the extensive menu include raw prawns in a sauce of chili peppers, coriander, lime, cucumber and red onion, cured avocado puree, cucumber and red onion (on the antojitos section of the menu) and the suckling pig quesadillas with achiote seeds, chili peppers, and spices. Desserts are simple and classic, like churros and flan.