Culinary stars (both literally and figuratively) shone down on the Algarve in the past week. The crème-de-la-crème of chefs from across Portugal and the world gathered in Galé for the Michelin Stars Portugal 2024 announcement ceremony. Portugal gained recognition for four new one star restaurants, and Antiqvvm in Porto was elevated from one star to two.
On the next day, a convergence occurred in the gastronomic galaxy. A stunning five-star collaboration dinner took place at Ocean Restaurant at Vila Vita Parc in Porches. Two Michelin star chef Hans Neuner of Ocean, was joined by three Michelin star chef Javier Torres of Cocina Hermanos Torres in Barcelona. Together, they curated a spectacular menu of 15 signature dishes, seamlessly pairing coastal Algarvian products and bold Brazilian flavors of Neuner, with the creative homage to Spanish traditions of Torres.
In the Algarve for 17 years now, Austria-native Neuner has passionately studied the heritage of Portuguese culture, from navigation routes to new worlds, to the unique fresh produce found along the Algarve coast. On this night, Neuner prepared dishes that were as delightfully presented as they were delicious to savor. The king crab with miso, was covered with generous amounts of caviar and served in a dazzling lotus (pictured at top). His thinly sliced pork was melt-in-your-mouth tender, topped with fermented cabbage and surrounded by black garlic sauce. The Ria Formosa Oyster with cucumber “escabeche” and dill, was placed in a bowl painted with pea powder.
Javier Torres, one-half of the famous “Hermanos Torres” team (twin Sergio unfortunately had another commitment in Madrid this evening), is acclaimed for his reverence of local Spanish ingredients, extracting maximum flavor through his vast experience and creativity. Standout dishes on this evening were his “Maresme” peas with Iberian ham, delicate “Bon Bons” de Piparras with smoked anchovies, and the tranche of duck with mignonette pepper and orange and pear gels.
Each course was perfectly paired with sensational wines from Portugal and Spain (and a champagne from France). A beautiful fresh alvarinho, Sou 2021 from Quinta do Santiago and Mira do Ó had notes of apricot, lemon leaf, spices and wild flowers. The Nossa Calçario 2022 was a pure bical from Bairrada’s Óis do Bairro, from star vintner Filipa Pato and her husband William Wouters. Pato takes pride in producing wines “without make-up,” meaning authentic wine with minimal intervention. A highlight of the night, no doubt, was the smooth and full-bodied Torres (not affiliated with the chefs) Mas La Plana, 2003, from the Penedès region in Catalonia, Spain.
While the cuisine was the main attraction, the ambiance at Ocean always wins best supporting actor. The bold blue walls on either side of the room are a sleek backdrop for actual coral as art. On this night, the view outside the floor-to-ceiling glass feature wall was resplendent with a large orange moon rising from the east, creating a corridor of light across the surface of the sea, and adding a magical touch to an extraordinary evening.
Learn more about Hans Neuner at the Ocean website.
Learn more about Sergio and Javier Torres at Cocina Hermanos Torres website.
