The latest project from the family behind Belém’s popular O Frade isn’t exactly a fish restaurant, although there’s no meat on the menu. Rather, Guelra—“gill” in Portuguese—is a celebration of all proteins from the sea. As large letters above the front counter make clear, the concept is “Ocean to Table.”
That counter—a good place for a quick bite solo, or maybe a relaxed first date— is one of three distinct dining environments. In summer guests can dine on a shaded terrace, and all year, they can head upstairs to the nautical-themed dining room.
The menu, overseen by chef Manuel Barreto, incorporates Portuguese products with international flavors and techniques. It starts off with finger-food snacks, such as a plate of shrimp tostadas with crispy tortillas, romesco, and ponzu, and another of salted cod stacked and prepared three ways: brandade (a creamy emulsion with olive oil), sames (swim bladders), and tongues. This is clearly not Portuguese food for beginners.
The sharable petiscos carry on the same idea, including dishes like mackerel with coriander and fennel; Japanese-style sandwiches with tuna, sriracha, and red cole slaw; and takoyakis (octopus balls with sriracha and katsuobushi, a sort of bonito flakes. The few main dishes have fashionably cryptic names like “O Que Vem à Rede é Peixe” (“what comes to the net is fish”) to spotlight little-known catches of the day.
For more information, visit the Guelra website.
Guelra
Rua de Belém 35
Belém
Lisbon
Phone: +351 939 002 081
Email: reservas@guelraott.com
Hours:
Tuesday to Saturday – 12:00 to 23:00
Sunday – 12:00 to 19:00