Not Your Usual Sushi Counter: The Rowdy Joy of Kureiji Izakaya

In a city where high-end sushi spots seem to be proliferating, it’s refreshing to find one that’s as much over a casual, even messy good time as Kureiji Izakaya. The bustling counter-service restaurant on one of the trendiest streets in Cais de Sodré quickly became a go-to for people who want a top-quality Japanese experience without all the seriousness and sanctimony.

At the helm is chef João Francisco Duarte, who had already made a name for himself in sushi circles at the excellent Soão, in out-of-the-way Alvalade. When a regular client (and established restaurateur) approached him with the idea of a new venture, their first stop order of business was a weeks-long research trip to Japan. There, they explored the cuisine and the culture so thoroughly that at one point, Duarte found himself slicing fish alongside Japanese sushi men at a small bar in Tokyo’s famous Tsukiji fish market.

It’s that boisterous atmosphere—seen in the photos that decorate the walls in Lisbon, as well as the big neon artwork over the DJ setup—that defines Kureiji Izakaya. The name means “crazy samurai,” and the team lives up to it with a long and playful menu. The high-quality sushi and sashimi are straightforward, but elsewhere, there’s more adventure. The carabineiro nigiri are served beside the crustaceans’ heads, which guests are meant to bite and slurp after they’ve eaten the sushi.

The menu also includes grilled skewers like kushiyaki and yakitori, wagyu tartare, gyozas, tempura, and katsu sando, and more serious dishes like fish collar and fish belly, served with fluffy rice. It may come across as a party place, but the culinary quality is still high.

And as for the party place, they take that part seriously too. The DJ booth is stocked with Japanese vinyl from the 1970s to the 1990s, and on weekend nights, the space transforms into a music bar that happens to have food—but very good food for sure.