Lamelas in Porto Covo might just be the only serious restaurant along the Alentejo coast that doesn’t serve grilled fish. That doesn’t mean chef Ana Moura doesn’t like fish—she does, and it makes up a large part of her menu—but only that she wants to do something more creative while also staying true to the region’s gastronomic roots.
She’s right to want to show off her creativity. She worked in renowned restaurants like Eleven in Lisbon and Arzak in Spain’s Basque country before deciding to return to her roots. Her cozy restaurant once belonged to her mother and takes its name from her grandfather, who was from Porto Covo. Even now, her mother works in the dining room while she’s at the stoves.
The dishes are easy to enjoy, despite the impressive technique that’s behind many of them. Even the starters are elevated: chorizo flavors the butter, and a paté made from the liver of abrótea (an unusual fish that’s found in the waters around nearby Sines) is also served with the bread. Other snacks include cuttlefish that’s redolent with coriander, a zesty octopus salad, and a cooling gazpacho salad.
From there, the larger dishes include hearty Alentejo fare like migas (bread pudding) with chorizo and spare ribs, feijoada (white bean stew) with triggerfish, and more abrótea with green and herb-laced green sauce and clams. Desserts also skew classic, like chocolate mousse with peanut crumble, and the Basque-style cheesecake that’s lately been showing up on menus all over Portugal.
The wine selection is focused on bottles produced within 50 kilometers of the restaurant; they take a special pride in their selection of high-quality medronho, the famous Alentejo firewater, which in this case is made by small producers who aim to craft a more refined version of the drink.
For more information, visit the Lamelas website.
Lamelas
Rua Cândido da Silva 55A
Porto Covo
Western Alentejo
Phone: +351924 060 426
Email: lamelasrestaurante@gmail.com
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday – 13:20 to 14:30 and 19:30 to 22:30
All photos by Gonçalo F. Santos courtesy of Lamelas
