It’s big news whenever serial chef-preneur Olivier da Costa opens a new restaurant, and his latest in Lisbon is no exception. While he was not the first to jump on the city’s—or global—omakase trend, he’s executing it with a great deal of his trademark glamor. Mimi, whose full name is Mimi, Curated by Yakuza, is unafraid of grandeur.
Guests enter through a low-lit bar with two small tables, where they can wait for their date while sipping a crafted cocktail. Then they’re ushered into the back, where no more than 30 guests each evening area seated around a sleek dining counter, all with a front-row seat for the work of sushi master Alex Hatano and his team of skilled chefs.
Roughly translate, omakase means “I leave it to you,” and the 12-course menu changes each night depending on the whims of Hatano and the deliveries of his suppliers. Much of it is local, like angulata oysters from the Algarve, red snapper from Sagres, and amberjack from the Azores. But they aren’t afraid to look further afield for the best, most luxurious ingredients out there. The menu might also include Italian truffle, Norwegian scallops, and rare Japanese wagyu.
Every dish is presented as a work of art, starting with the senbei, a sort of flatbread based on tempura dough that is here studded with Salicornia seaweed and flecks of red bell pepper, all arrayed to suggest cherry blossoms or flowers on a vine. There’s also a very high level of technique, such as the combination of Japanese-style (with dashi) and French-style (made from bones) fish stocks used in the miso soup, and the velvety, sake-infused beurre blanc that bathes a medallion of lobster.
The nigiri portion of the menu—the main event of any omakase meal—is presented confidently, in a way that’s precise yet lavish. Hatano’s rice is perfectly seasoned with just enough vinegar, and he measures it out in small portions that don’t overwhelm the fish. And again, there’s a good dose of luxury, as in the caviar that tops the toro, and the fresh, hand-grated wasabi that’s deployed sparingly.
Dessert is good enough, but the real final high point of the evening is the wagyu pastrami sandwich, which is served on brioche and paired with a spicy mustard sauce. And just in case you forgot where you were, another dollop of caviar is perched on top.
For more information, visit the Mimi website.
Mimi, Curated by Yakuza
Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 94
Lisbon
Phone: +351 963 620 129
Email: mimi@olivier.pt
Photos: ©Hayley Kelsing Photography, courtesy of Mimi
Hours:
Monday to Wednesday – 19:00 to 24:00
Thursday to Saturday – 19:00 to 01:00