Omakase Wa – Japanese Cuisine in Harmony, in Lisbon

To be sure, there are more (and ever more) sophisticated omakase restaurants around Lisbon. But this chef’s-choice sushi restaurant between Principe Real and Avenida Liberdade charms diners with the earnestness, joy, and obvious pleasure in serving of the team behind it.

Sushi chef Ashik Yonjan and his two partners in service and beverages spent three years traveling from Japan to England to Canada before opening their 10-seat counter in Lisbon. They chose the name “Wa” because it’s a Japanese word meaning “harmony.”

They’ve certainly perfected the harmonious look of the place, from the blond wood and shoji screens to the noren curtain that hangs over the door to the WC. But their approach to the menu is a bit more playful. There are techniques from the purists’ playbook, but flourishes that can come as a surprise.

While the 15-course menu changes frequently, it always emphasizes fresh fish and seafood but with some flourishes in the presentation. During a recent dinner, a raw oyster was presented on a plate of flaming black sand. A toro nigiri was topped with blowtorched foie gras, and Yonjan and company pumped smoke into small domes over another, gold-dusted nigiri to infuse it with flavor. The pre-dessert was yuzu gummies tied like fruits to a bonsai tree.

The beverage menu emphasizes sake, of course, with the suggestion of a flight of three different styles. Alternatively, traditional, unfiltered, black rice, and sparkling sakes are offered by the bottle or half bottle, as well as Japanese beer, Portuguese wine, and imported soft drinks.