Õtaka - Sophisticated Nikkei Cuisine in Ponta Delgada

A huge percentage of the tuna caught in the Azores goes to Japan and to top sushi restaurants around the world. Thankfully, some of it is now staying behind and being served at Õtaka in Ponta Delgada, one of the most sophisticated restaurants to come onto the scene in the islands.

It is the passion project of chefs José Pereira and his wife, Anne Teixeira, who handles the pastry part of the menu. Rather than using one of the Azores’ most esteemed products in traditional dishes, they made it an ingredient—one of many impeccable ones—in a type of cuisine that would better showcase its richness and flavor.

The idea here is Nikkei cuisine, the kind of Japanese fare with Peruvian touches that was first popularized a couple of decades ago by Nobu Matsuhisa in New York. So, of course, fresh fish takes center stage, not only the tuna but also whatever else stood out at the market each morning.

While there is an a la carte menu, it’s best to try one of the tasting menus. There are a few options, ranging from the seven-course Discovery menu to the ten-course Experience menu. They all follow a classic progression, moving from umami-packed snacks to some raw, naked dishes (tuna tartare, salmon tataki, white fish ceviche with shiso sauce) to tempura or vegetables to something that’s more like a main course.

If you’re in the mood for a splurge (€50 per person before drinks), the Experience menu makes a detour into Azores tradition to serve lapas (limpets), here with yuzu and spice, and a stop at the cornerstone of modern Nikkei cuisine, black cod with miso. This is definitely not your average bacalhau.

The lively dining room—it’s busy most nights—is informal and welcoming. There are no white tablecloths, but it’s also not austere in the way some Japanese restaurants are. There are colorful cushions on the chairs, and the lighting is attractive.