For all of the next-gen “Portuguese with a twist” places that have been making waves lately in Lisbon, there haven’t really been many spots to sample classical dishes in their most traditional form. That changed with the opening of Pica-Pau, the latest project from prolific chef Luís Gaspar (of Sala de Corte, among other restaurants), in a pretty space with a terrace in Principe Real.
While the cooks at the new fashionable spots might be competing with one another (a good thing, to be sure!), it’s probably fair to say that Gaspar and his team here are instead competing with everyone’s grandma. That’s the standard they’re trying to match—the most quintessential, “honest” recipes, made with the best ingredients and accomplished technique, and without any reinterpretations.
What there is instead is a compact menu of Portuguese petiscos—octopus salad, cockles with garlic and cilantro, suckling pig patties—and no-frills main dishes, including bacalhau à Bras, olive-oil-drenched roasted octopus, and simply grilled steaks. In keeping with tradition, the dish of the day is both a good value—just 12€ on weekdays—and a solution to decision fatigue, with meals like cow’s hoof with chickpeas (Tuesdays) and chicken-blood rice (Fridays).
They proudly proclaim that there’s “zero creativity,” and so for visitors who are looking to get a taste of the “real” Portuguese cuisine, it’s hard to do better.
The desserts are also what locals might remember enjoying in their grandmothers’ homes: rice pudding, chocolate mousse, crème caramel (pudim abode de priscos). After all, as Pica-Pau seems to be out to say—if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it.
For more information, visit the Pica-Pau website.
Pica-Pau
Rua Escola Politécnica 27
Lisbon
Phone: +351 212 698 509
Email: picapau@estaurantepicapau.pt
Hours
Monday to Thursday – 12:00 to16:00 and 19:00 to 00:00
Friday and Saturday – 12:00 to 1:00
Sunday and Bank Holidays – 12:00 to 0:00
Photos: Nuno Correia
