Before Picamiolos came along, nose-to-tail eating had not really been a thing in Lisbon. Sure, there’s some tripe and pig’s ears. But hardcore offal? People generally found it, well, awful.
Not restaurateurs Ricardo Santos and Leonor Brito, the owners of the popular By the Wine restaurant in Chiado. They became intrigued by the idea after dining at José Júlio Vintém’s Tomba Lobos in the Alentejo and becoming friends with the chef. Vintém shared that he was frustrated by the way offal, internal organs, and extremities were discarded in modern times, despite being part of traditional Portuguese cuisine.
They made a big bet: Picamiolos spans two large floors in Corpo Santo, near Cais do Sodré, seats 140 diners and aims to become a culinary institution. It helps that there are a number of familiar Alentejana comfort-food dishes on the menu, such as feijoadas and açordas.
Vegetarians and pescatarians, relax: Sometimes the concept is a mere play on words. There are hearts of artichokes and romaine on the menu, as well as extremities of tuna (the belly) and squid (the rings)
But to really appreciate Picamiolos, you need to go for it. There are starters of slightly seared lard petals with garlic and lemon, a recognizably grilled pork snout, and—fittingly for a restaurant whose name roughly translates as “stick the brains”—lamb sweetbreads with garlic.
Main dishes include guinea-fowl açorda and oxtail with parsnip purée. Vintém’s search for the best producers has led him to butchers who can supply him with outré delicacies like bull diaphragm tendons (highly prized and known as onglet in France), lamb trotters, and duck testicles.
The desserts, thankfully, don’t get more exotic than chocolate mousse with a crumble of bacon. Which may be the most ordinary thing you eat at Picamiolos.
For more information, visit the Picamiolos website.
Picamiolos
Rua do Corpo Santo 2,4, and 6
Cais do Sodré
Lisbon
Phone: +351 215 890 487
Email: picamiolos@bythewine.pt
Hours: Monday to Saturday – 12:30 to 15:00 and 19:00 to 24:00