Soão Taberna Asiática is the kind of Lisbon restaurant that could have made it on one of the most competitive blocks in trendy Chiado, but the owners (Grupo SEA ME) instead chose a quiet stretch of out-of-the-way Alvalade. That was, in part, to keep the proceedings more relaxed, but also to make it a destination restaurant–a place worth traveling for.
Granted, the lower rents probably made it easier for them to take the risks that they did—with the wide ranging cuisine, the out-there cocktails (one, with rum, coconut milk, lime juice, and mango shrub, comes out wafting a pleasingly aromatic smoke, in a glass rimmed with masala curry powder), and the all-in thematic decor.
Upstairs, the vibe is that of a bustling izakaya. Downstairs, the feeling is more intimate, with tables in intimate alcoves that can be curtained off for privacy (although the night I dined there, none of the families or couples downstairs chose to do so). The best of these has a window onto the kitchen.
Executive Chef Luís Cardoso traveled (and ate) extensively through Asia for years before opening Soão. His deputies are from Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries, which explains why the wide variety of cuisines—Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, and Korean—all seem to come out so well. An amuse buche of cuttlefish sets the right tone, Cantonese dim sum with langoustines carry along the theme, sashimi and a giant roll of tiger prawn sushi are beautifully presented, and Malaysian red curry bursts with flavor. The pad thai is a popular dish, but sadly we had run out of room.
(top) Gói Cuôn: fish and shrimp spring roll, cucumber, basil and peanut sauce (below) Dakgangjeong: chicken wings with korean sauce. Photos: Paulo Barata
For more information, visit Soão Taberna Asiatica website.
Soão Taberna Asiática
Avenida de Roma 100
Alvalade
Lisbon
Phone: 210 534 499
Email: reservas@soao.pt
Hours:
Monday to Thursday – 12:30 to 15:30 and 19:30 to 23:00
Friday – 12:30 to 5:30 and 19:30 to 24:00
Saturday – 12:30 to 24:00
Sunday – 12:30 to 23:00
Photos: Paulo Barata, Courtesy of Soão