ÀCosta by Olivier, Waterfront Fresh Fish & Seafood in Lisbon

The name of this waterside restaurant in the heart of Lisbon’s tourism zone has a double meaning. One is “to the coast,” a reference to the starring role that fresh fish and seafood play on the menu. The other is the surname of its creator, Olivier da Costa, one of Portugal’s most prolific and commercially successful chef-restaurateurs.

The setting at ÀCosta by Olivier is glamorous—a river-front glass cube in Doca da Marinha, between Praça do Comércio and the Lisbon cruise terminal—but the dishes lean toward the simple and classic. Olivier says the menu is a way to remember his grandmother Maria Luísa, his grandfather Augusto, his aunt Matilde, or his uncle Jorge. Maybe—if his family had access to the absolute freshest seafood and white-jacketed servers to present it.

In any case, the menu is simple—fresh fish priced by the kilo and presented on ice at the entrance to the dining room, classic and luxurious seafood presentations, and and meat dishes for those who insist on their steaks. Standouts include the grilled squid with beurre blanc, enormous carabineiro prawns bathed in a sauce of white wine and butter, and razor clams (navalhas, claro, and not the cheaper lingueirão).

For mains, choose among the fresh fish or ask for a large-format classic, such as the ÀCosta codish (confit and served on bread with green beans, onions, and olives), European lobster rice, or pasta gamberini with shrimp, all of which are served in portions for two. The land-animal section include Alentejano pork and steak tartare, and the standout side is the “Rich Rice,” which is made with dates, green beans, and toasted almonds.

Desserts are classic, like Marie Louise’s chocolate mousse and sponge cake in the style of Ovar, a city in the north of Portugal. The beverage list includes classic and creative cocktails, Portugese wines, prestige bottles from elsewhere in the world, and French Champagnes.