Asked how his restaurants are different from Lisbon’s other sushi spots̋, chef Aron Vargas puts his hand over his heart and says, “Alma.” Soul. And, it’s clear from his precise, prettily presented sushi and sashimi that his soul is in every stroke of his knives.̋
Vargas, a disciple of Takashi Yoshitake (of the beloved restaurant Aya), opened his first restaurant, in the São Sebastião neighborhood four years ago with the idea of bringing the most traditional dishes and the highest quality of fresh fish to his guests. Two years later, he opened a second outpost, in Mercado Janeiro 31 in Saldanha, after he discovered the sushi restaurants within Tokyo’s fish markets. At this location, he gets his ingredients—whatever is freshest each day—from one of the fishmongers next door.
The dining rooms are also typically Japanese, meaning somewhat austere, but the Saldanha location, with its sculptural wooden ceiling and wall, has more sex appeal. Both have prominent counters where you can watch Vargas and his deputies craft your sushi.
And sushi (and sashimi) is what you should be having. It’s what most people, including a sizable Japanese clientele, come here for and it’s what the restaurants do best. There’s a full menu of tempuras, noodle soups, and other cooked dishes, but these can be uneven. Ask your server to guide you. During my visit, the dish of sautéed scallops—which was recommended—was excellent, but the seaweed salad that I chose on my own was oversalted. Thankfully, a plate of delicious raw fish, sliced with soul and integrity, more than made up for it.
For more information, visit Aron Sushi website.
Aron Sushi
Rua Marquês Sá da Bandeira 14A / B
Lisbon
Phone: +351 213 574 118
Mobile: +351 925 231 969
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Mercado Janeiro 31
Rua Engenheiro Vieira da Silva 18
Lisbon
Phone: +351 213 540 286
Tuesday to Saturday – 12:30 to 15:00 and 19:30 to 23:00; Sunday 12:30 to 15:00