When Bonsai got its start, more than 30 years ago, Lisboeta were generally averse to raw fish. So it was brave of Japanese chef Masakazu Yamamoto to post an ad offering his services here, and even braver of film producer Paulo Trancoso to hire him and open a restaurant. But Trancoso had developed a love of sushi and sashimi on his travels, and decided to give it a shot.
And so they opened in 1987—to the sort of reception that prompted them to add yakitori, sukiyaki, and shabu shabu, in which food is cooked on the table.
Now, of course, Lisbon is mad for sushi, but Bonsai remains true to its origins. Even after going through several managers and chefs, the decor and the food—now prepared mainly by head chef Lucas Azevedo—are Japanese at its purest. A sushi counter is the focus of the simple dining room, and in the back there are private areas with tatami mats, cushions, and low tables for traditional Japanese-style dining. A noren separates the two rooms.
There’s a popular 10€ executive lunch menu that comprises a sushi or sashimi amuse bouche, miso soup, salad, rice, and a dish of the day. On the day we visited, the daily special was a grilled sardine, but, this being late June, we were sardined-out and opted instead for simple sushi and sashimi.
The presentation isn’t showy, but the quality of the fish—salmon, fatty tuna, and yellowtail—is impeccable. And 19€ for that much deliciousness is still one of the better sushi values in town.
For more information, visit the Bonsai Facebook page.
Bonsai
Rua da Rosa 248
Lisbon
Phone: +351 213 462 515
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday – 12:30 to 14:30 and 19:30 to 22:45