In Portuguese, the word broto can be a noun to describe the act of sprouting or a verb that means to emerge—to burst forth—from the ground. When chef Pedro Pena Bastos chose Broto as the name for his new restaurant, he was sending a message: His food would be simple and elemental, something that bursts forth from the terrain of Portugal’s collective food memories.
The new restaurant, which occupies a prime spot in Chiado’s foodie square, Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, certainly looks the part. The design announces a casual cuisine, with its bare wood tables, rustic and simple ceramics, and windows that open wide to the terrace outside.
But in some ways, the food belies that narrative of essential flavors and connection with childhood memories. Pena Bastos may use entirely local ingredients from small producers, and he may riff on Grandma’s recipes, but this is not a simple neighborhood restaurant that’s turning out the classics. His fine-dining pedigree is fully on display.
This is not a criticism. Pena Bastos is one of Portugal’s most respected young chefs, having taken over as head chef at Herdade do Esporão at age 24, landing a World’s 50 Best Discovery seal at Ceia, and earning a Michelin star at Cura at the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon. He may be inspired by Portuguese simplicity here, but his creativity and refined technique still shine.
Still, there’s no tasting menu formality. Rather, the menu is designed for sharing, and divided by size. The “Bites” include snacks like squid fritters with pickled cabbage and Alentejo pork jowls, and mussel coscorões (fried pastries) with bell pepper escabeche and a vibrant green pil-pil.
“Smaller” and “Larger” feature more composed plates meant to be eaten with forks and knives, such as codfish livers with potato, carrot escabeche, and black garlic; corvina with sourdough açorda, halophytes, and pennyroyal sauce; and slow-roasted lamb with Trás-os-Montes couscous, Swiss chard, Rocha pear, and mint.
Desserts likewise span the distance between the humble and the fanciful. There’s a version of farturas (fried doughnuts) with milk cream that’s not so far from the street fair staple, but also a refined tasting of São Tomé 75% cacao chocolate with pine nut ice cream. That range is the point: Broto is a restaurant that’s meant to be enjoyed freely and without ceremony.
For more information, visit the Broto website.
Broto
Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 20ª
Chiado
Lisbon
Phone: +351 960 138 104
Email: table@brotochiado.pt
Daily – 12:00 to 15:00 and 18:30 to 23:00
Photos: @Arlei Lima courtesy of Broto