A longtime favorite of in-the-know travellers who like an intimate, Comporta-like vibe in the heart of the city, the Santa Clara 1728 is known both for its elegant simplicity and its leisurely, delicious brunches around a communal table. But that table was going unused after noon. In time, that changed. The Ceia concept was designed by chef Pedro Pena Bastos and the owner of the property to cook lavish tasting menus for dinners that are open to the public but feel more like intimate, exclusive dinner parties.
The name Ceia, is frankly a little odd, because the word means “supper,” but the dinners—which are limited to 14 guests each evening—consist of many exquisitely prepared and presented dishes (think tweezers), and can stretch out over more than four hours, once you count the cocktail (kombucha) hour in the backyard garden.
Perhaps the word is meant to convey the convivial, party-like atmosphere, in which a crowd of international sophisticates bond over seafood and suckling pig. On the night I visited, the guests were about half Portuguese and half foreign, and I found myself seated between a noted Portuguese journalist and a Californian winemaker who happens to produce one of my all-time favorite pinot noirs.
As is the case in almost every fine-dining venture these days, there’s a heavy emphasis on Portuguese ingredients and hyperlocal producers. The partners here are already producing their own honey and cattle at their sister property, Casa no Tempo, in the Alentejo, and plan add a vegetable garden and cheese factory. But honestly, when the delicious and surprising tastes keep coming, and the wine and conversation keep flowing, it’s unlikely that many guests are thinking all that much about the provenance of what’s on their plate.
For more information, visit Ceia web page.
Ceia
Santa Clara 1728
Campo de Santa Clara 128
Lisbon
Reservations:
Through the website: http://www.silentliving.pt/ceia/
or email ceiatable@silentliving.pt
Dinner only: €100.
Dinner with wine pairings, €150
Average meal duration: 2.5 to 3 hours
Hour: Wednesday to Saturday – 20:00 start time
l