Portugal’s most internationally famous chef, José Avillez—whose two-Michelin-star flagship, Belcanto, currently holds 25th place on the prestigious World’s 50 Best list—went back to the basics with his latest restaurant, Maré, a seaside fish restaurant in his hometown of Cascais.
Along with the protected terrace, there are two dining rooms: one that’s relatively formal, with white tablecloths and the like, and another that’s more relaxed. The latter is centered on a gorgeous bar that’s covered in tile panels from the renowned, nearby Viúva Lamego factory that bring the seabed to mind. A three-meter-wide wooden hanging ray by Luis Gallego and ceramic sculptures of fish and seahorses by Studio Bongard also set the stage.
So does the display of fresh fish and seafood on ice in between the two rooms. There’s no forgetting that product is king here. And so, where there are a few Avillez signatures like raw tuna cubes in a seaweed cone that you eat like ice cream, the main emphasis is on raw bar specialties and charcoal-grilled fish and seafood.
The squid, scarlet carabineiro shrimp, and octopus were all unusually tender, perfectly sauced, and served in user-friendly presentations (because not every visitor to Portugal is comfortable sucking the brain out of the head of a shrimp, as delicious as it is). Sides, like the ruby red summer tomatoes and the vibrant sautéed greens slicked with basil oil, offer a welcome counterpoint to the ocean flavors.
The dessert menu is brief but strong, with dishes that emphasize passion fruit, hazelnuts, almonds, or chocolate. But a go-to seems to be the ice creams and sorbets, which are a perfect match for the relaxed beachside setting.
For more information, visit the Maré website.
Maré
Avenida Nossa Senhora do Cabo 9000
Cascais
Phone: +351 916 001 527
Reservations: marejoseavillez.pt
Hours
Wednesday and Thursday – 12:30 to 15:00 and 19:00 to 23:00
Friday and Saturday – 12:30 to 23:00
Sunday and Public Holidays – 12:30 to 22:30
Find more José Avillez restaurants here.
