Memoria - Authentic Italian in Campo de Ourique, Lisbon

Lisbon is increasingly full of Italian restaurants. But not many of them are as seductive as Memoria, the newest watering hole from the people behind the Pasta Non Basta restaurants in Alvalade and Campo Pequeno.

This one, in a rustic but modern space that’s well lit by red lamps in Campo de Ourique, manages to be both homey and sophisticated. Even while it’s still light outside on summer nights, the dining room comes to life with families and groups of friends here to share an uncomplicated meal.

The focus of the menu—which is presented in the form of placemats that look like they were handwritten—is pizza and pasta. Standouts include the fresh-tasting spaghetti al pomodoro with burrata, the meaty lasagna della nonna, and the devilishly spicy diavola pizza. But there are also some more surprising choices, such as pappardelle with rabbit stew, and ravioli with tellegio and figs, a dish that nicely balances sweetness, fat, and acidity.

But jumping straight into the carbs would be a mistake. (So would going alone—many things here are meant to be shared.) Memoria imports many top-tier ingredients from, including Parmigiano Reggiano from Parma, 14-month DOP prosciutto San Daniele, and mortadella with truffles from Bologna.

Locally, the restaurant has its own garden to supply ingredients for winning dishes like the well-dressed tomato salad and the warm roasted vegetables. Add the faro with shrimp, and it’s easily possible to enjoy a decidedly Italian night here without blowing your healthful eating regimen. (That’s not something you can say about that many Italian restaurants in Portugal.)

Adding to that enjoyment is the menu of spritzes—there are six types, ranging from the classic Aperol and prosecco to one with Campari and ginger beer, which can be ordered by the glass or the jug—and the space. It was designed by Inês Moura to resemble an authentic Italian house, with the kitchen as the nerve center, of course. Inside, there are rustic walls and that beautiful red glow (courtesy of lighting designer Joana Forjaz). Outside, two courtyard dining areas were designed with leisurely summer nights with friends in mind.