As Lisbon’s dining scene grows more and more sophisticated, it can be hard to find a restaurant that feels like home. That’s why it’s so refreshing to come across Taberna do Calhau, on a semi-derelict (for now) square in Mouraria.
The 26-seat restaurant is the passion project of Alentejano architect-turned-chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau. It’s filled with the furniture of an old tavern in Beja: mismatched tables with marble tops, benches in various sizes and shapes, pictures that fill the walls, and old suitcases. The open kitchen allows guests to see what the cooks are up to.
Chef Calhau and his team in the kitchen
As for the menu, it consists of small dishes that are meant to be shared. The Alentejo is the reference for most, so expect serious meat dishes, like Cabeça de Xara (pig’s head terrine) and eggs with lamb’s brain. The Alentejaninha combines a southern-style roasted pork cheek with the other elements and sauces of a Porto-style francesinha.
(left) Eggs, Fish and Corriander, (right) Marinated Duck
For lighter or less adventurous eaters, there’s gazpacho, a dish called “tomato, tomato, tomato,” delicious shrimp with finely chopped lupini beans, and an excellent dish of hake prepared almost like a ceviche, with lemon and olive oil, piso de coentros (coriander sauce) and a sous-vide egg.
The point, though, is to range across the menu, tasting everything with an open mind. If you pay attention, you can taste Calhau’s passion in every bite.
For more information visit the Taberna do Calhau Facebook page.
Taberna do Calhau
Largo das Olarias, 23
Mouraria
Lisbon
Phone: +351 215 851 937
Hours:
Monday, and Wednesday to Saturday – 12:00 to 15:00 and 19:00 to 24:00
Sunday – 18:00 to 24:00
Closed Tuesday