Attla - Contemporary Portuguese of André Fernandes in Lisbon

The curious-sounding name is no coincidence. Chef André Fernandes wanted his new restaurant, in Alcântara, to call to mind both the Atlantic and the world atlas. Attla is a love letter both to his Portuguese roots (and the cuisines of nearby Spain and France) and to his travels around the globe.

He began cooking and traveling when he was 16, in Brittany. He worked with Alain Ducasse, then passed through Michelin-starred kitchens and gourmet restaurants in Barcelona, Germany, Zurich, the Caribbean, Bora Bora, and Rio. Then he got more adventurous, touring around Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, and Papua New Guinea. Influences from all of those cuisines show up on his plates—he loves unexpected contrasts and surprise pairings.

After all that, he spent three years private-cheffing in Costa Rica, where he would often cook on a beach or in the rain forest, where everything had to be chosen carefully and brought in—or found there. It was during this time that his love affair with nature began.

Thus, at Attla, he works only with Portuguese products and few red meats (using the whole animal when he does). Fish comes from Peniche, seafood from Sado, vegetables from the Alentejo, and bread from neighborhood favorite Gleba. The short menu changes frequently, with the seasons.

During a winter visit, there was a conglioni (stuffed pasta shells) with Portuguese alheira, grilled shallots, pumpkin satay, and “broa” crumble as a starter. The mains included a purple sweet potato en croute de sal, black beer sabayon, and wasabina oil. Nothing added up, but everything was delicious.